The Path Forward on Tariffs Starts with Better Buying

  • Better Buying

Fair purchasing practices are never a ‘nice to have’ – they are the glue that holds the fragile global economy together, and as Trump’s tariffs imperil the lives and livelihoods of millions of the world’s poorest workers, we need them more than ever.

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Lindsay Wright
April 11, 2025

These are turbulent times.

At the time of writing, stock markets are rebounding, after a few days of shock, with tariffs frozen at 10 percent for 90 days, except for China, which now faces a 125 percent levy.

China’s exports to the U.S. are only around two percent of its total economic activity, so it can afford to hold its nerve. But Vietnam and Cambodia, whose exports to the U.S. make up around 30 percent and 38 percent respectively, are still dealing with a 10 percent levy. Less horrifying than the 46 percent and 49 percent they were initially faced with, but punishing nonetheless and deeply alarming for a country like Cambodia whose garment industry provides incomes and livelihoods for an estimated 750,000 people. We also don’t know yet what tomorrow will bring or what will happen once the 90-day pause concludes.

We haven’t seen a tariff war of this nature in any of our lifetimes, but the nearest approximation we can turn to is the recent pandemic. Better Buying’s 2020 Spring ratings cycle opened on April 1, right in the eye of the storm of Covid-19. We were expecting some bad news from the data, and for progress to have stalled, or gone into reverse. But while the story wasn’t 100-percent positive, we were surprised to find that the brands and retailers that had been subscribed with Better Buying for two or more consecutive ratings cycles actually improved their scores in several areas, even while facing one of the most challenging business environments in recent memory.

Although the pandemic and today’s tariff conflict are very different in cause, they share a common feature: sudden, destabilizing shocks to global trade. Back then, we learned a few things about what companies got right — and we’d be wise to apply those lessons now.

Here are some suggestions as to what brands, retailers and suppliers can do now, based on what we learned back in 2020:

Brands and Retailers

Follow the Five Principles of Responsible Purchasing: Visibility; Stability; Time; Financials; Shared Responsibility.

Talk to your suppliers. Establish regular, transparent dialogue with your suppliers andshare what you learn about tariff-related impacts and challenges in real time. Then discuss how they may affect pricing, delivery times, and production schedules.

Be a true partner. Work with your suppliers to co-create solutions and strategies to minimize the impact of tariffs, such as adjusting order volumes, or timelines.

Think long-term. Avoid knee-jerk reactions such as demanding price reductions or adopting aggressive cost negotiation strategies. Instead, focus on establishing long-term commitments and contracts with suppliers to provide stability and predictability for both parties. This will make it easier to manage costs and investments, including adjustments due to tariffs.

Advocate for suppliers. Include your suppliers in trade policy conversations, and include them in your lobbying efforts. Push for suppliers to be included in trade policy discussions, such as through trade associations or business councils.

Don’t cancel orders. Pay for all the orders already placed. In full.

Invite your suppliers to rate your purchasing practices. The Cascale Better Buying Spring ratings cycle, the BBPPI, is open for supplier ratings now. Encourage your suppliers to rate your purchasing practices before May 31. It’s free, and anonymous, for suppliers to participate, and the data we collect will help identify key issues and impacts of the tariffs, and inform recommendations and next steps for the industry.

Suppliers and Manufacturers

Participate in the Cascale Better Buying spring ratings cycle. The BBPPI runs until May 31. Tell us about the impacts of this tariff turmoil on your buyer customers’ purchasing practices. With strong data and insights, we can better understand what is happening and make recommendations as to what to do next. This link takes you straight to the survey.

“What can you do right now?”

→ Brands: Encourage your suppliers to participate in BBPPI.

→ Suppliers: Tell your side of the story by submitting your anonymous ratings before May 31.

Rate Your Buyers? Better Buying Ratings Cycle Opens for Suppliers

  • Better Buying

Relationships fuel the consumer goods industry. Through Better Buying, now helmed under Cascale, suppliers can use their voices to elevate and improve purchasing practices. Here’s how it benefits suppliers.

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Lindsay Wright
April 02, 2025

Why Suppliers Participate in Better Buying’s Rating Cycle

Relationships fuel the consumer goods industry. Through Better Buying, now helmed under Cascale, suppliers can use their voices to elevate and improve relationships and purchasing practices. Here’s how it benefits suppliers.

It’s Free & Anonymous 

Participating in Better Buying’s rating cycles is free – and totally anonymous. Neither your identity, nor the data and insights you provide, are ever shared with your buyer customers. Raw data is never released, and multiple supplier ratings are averaged and anonymized so buyers cannot identify which specific suppliers rated them.

It’s Focused 

Better Buying runs two annual rating cycles, the Better Buying Purchasing Practices Index (BBPPI) in the Spring (opening April 1) and the Better Buying Partnership Index (BBPI) in the Fall (anticipated in October).

You may receive a direct invitation from one of your customers to participate in one or both of the rating cycles, after which the Better Buying team will reach out to you, with support and guidance on how to take part. You can also rate any buyer with whom you have had a direct business relationship within the last 12 months. They don’t have to be a Better Buying subscriber.

It’s Proven

The data and insights you provide help your buyer customers to understand how their purchasing practices are impacting you, while you, in turn, can use the ratings to determine potential future customers to work with and to leverage more favorable contracts with existing customers that support improved factory working conditions.

Buyer companies that subscribe with Better Buying, and invite their suppliers to participate in the rating cycle, receive reports which include their company’s overall and category scores against an industry benchmark. This includes anonymized suggestions from suppliers on how they can improve and support from the Better Buying team as they begin the process of improving their purchasing practices.

In fact, while industry progress is typically slow and uneven when it comes to decent work, over 70 percent of Better Buying repeat subscribers saw score improvements in BBPPI 2024.

For Suppliers, Improved Relationships Help You: 

  • Meet your social and environment goals while still earning reasonable profits
  • Improve your workforce and facility utilization (via mutually beneficial costing)
  • Improve your workforce stability (via more predictable and consistent workflow)
  • Reduce unexpected finance charges in the procurement and settlement process
  • Improve product quality products (as buyers better understand the supply-demand cycle)

Cascale Launches Better Buying Purchasing Practices Index (BBPPI) Ratings Cycle, Furthers Fair Purchasing Legacy

  • Better Buying

Now in its ninth rating cycle, the BBPPI delivers actionable insights to drive responsible purchasing practices and support decent work.

April 01, 2025

Now in its ninth rating cycle, the BBPPI delivers actionable insights to drive responsible purchasing practices and support decent work.

Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Oakland (CA) – April 1, 2025: Today, Cascale launched the ninth annual Better Buying Purchasing Practices Index (BBPPI) ratings cycle, a significant milestone in the organization’s integration of key Better Buying Institute (BBI) assets and confirmation that BBI’s positive impact on purchasing practices continues to thrive.

A cornerstone of Cascale’s Support Decent Work for All strategic pillar, the BBPPI is a comprehensive deep dive into purchasing practices across the apparel industry. The survey’s unique methodology enables suppliers – Cascale members and non-members alike – to feed back on their customers’ purchasing practices anonymously and deliver actionable insights. Widely recognized for its credibility, the BBPPI is a trusted benchmark for purchasing practice transparency. In 2024, the BBPPI showed that 70% of participants improved their purchasing practices scores.

“Gone are the days when buyer companies can claim ignorance of responsible purchasing practices or excuse inaction by asserting that there is no way to measure progress on decent work for all,” said Colin Browne, Cascale CEO. “Cascale‘s Better Buying tools are a tried-and-tested, safe way for companies to measure their purchasing practices and track progress, year over year. And we know they work.”

By championing fair purchasing practices, Better Buying tools like the BBPPI help address challenges such as last-minute order changes, delayed payments, and pricing practices that undermine supply chain resilience. These efforts ultimately contribute to improved labor conditions and more sustainable supply chains.

“BBPPI is a secure and anonymous feedback channel, allowing us to share insights that drive meaningful industry improvements,” said Nikhil Hirdaramani, Director, Hirdaramani Group. “This collective input fosters better manufacturing practices and empowers us to build a fairer, more sustainable future together. As a manufacturer, we have experienced how BBPPI supports us, and it is great to see our customers engage constructively and take result-driven actions based on the surveys we have participated in.”

“VF Corporation has long recognized the value of Better Buying’s ratings cycles,” said Sean Cady, VP Global Sustainability, Responsibility, Trade and Government Affairs at VF Corporation, and Cascale Board Director. “The enhanced supply chain, visibility, ability to improve purchasing practices, and tangible business benefits make it a powerful tool for advancing our responsible sourcing efforts.”

Suppliers can submit ratings and access step-by-step guides, supplier testimonials, and FAQs on the Better Buying website. All ratings must be submitted by the deadline of May 31, 2025.

Cascale Issues 2025 Better Buying Partnership Index Report

  • Better Buying

Anonymous survey of consumer goods buyer-supplier relationships reveals improvement in softgoods category.

Dry cleaning ironing clothes. Female workers clean cloth chemical process. Laundry industrial factory dry-cleaning.
February 10, 2025

Anonymous survey of consumer goods buyer-supplier relationships reveals improvement in softgoods category.

Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Oakland (CA) – February 10, 2025: After acquiring key assets of the Better Buying Institute (BBI) earlier this month, Cascale has published the 2025 Better Buying Partnership Index (BBPI) Report—the first Better Buying report to be issued by Cascale. Since 2022, the BBPI has used anonymous surveys that assess buyer-supplier relationships across 12 interconnected areas of partnership performance. Annual data from the BBPI report helps buyers assess and improve business relationships with suppliers.

“Integrating the Better Buying tools into our strategy isn’t just about adding another metric—it’s a catalyst for rethinking how we build supply chain relationships,” said Colin Browne, CEO at Cascale. “This year’s Better Buying Partnership Index report proves that when buyers and suppliers engage on equal footing with clear, actionable insights, we can dismantle outdated practices and work toward creating a framework for equitable and sustainable progress. We aim to drive systemic change that can empower every partner in the value chain to achieve lasting impact.”

Key highlights from the report include:

  • A 50% increase in participating brands, rising to 25 from the previous cycle.
  • Notable improvements in 10 out of the 12 performance areas measured—including enhanced solicitation of supplier input on product and process innovation, improved business stability, and increased perception of buyers as “preferred partners” by suppliers. (Preferred partners are buyers that suppliers view as highly reliable, transparent, and committed to mutually beneficial, sustainable practices.)
  • The global softgoods sector (including apparel, footwear, and home goods) achieved its highest-ever partnership score of 52 (on a scale from -100 to +100), a four-point improvement from the previous year.

The report also notes that buyers’ operational efficiency was the only area to show a decline (by 2.3%), suggesting that suppliers may be experiencing resource allocation issues, redundancies, and bottlenecks. Buyers who allocated sufficient time for planning and process management were more likely to have efficient operational systems, reflecting better organized and well-planned collaboration practices. Suppliers have called on buyers to review and improve their operational processes to eliminate inefficiencies.

“In today’s challenging climate, our industry must embrace true partnership and collective action,” said Dr. Delman Lee, vice chair at TAL Apparel and Cascale board director. “The latest BBPI report shows that when buyers and suppliers engage transparently and equally, innovation and more sustainable practices can follow naturally. At Cascale, we believe every value chain partner must be empowered and motivated to work together—because only through genuine collaboration can we drive the urgent changes needed for a resilient and responsible future.”

History shows that participating in the Better Buying Partnership Index can help shift the needle. Buyers that subscribed to the BBPI for at least two consecutive years showed continued improvement, with six out of nine companies reporting improved scores compared to the previous cycle. Participating companies are encouraged to share their BBPI scores with internal and external stakeholders – including executives, investors, regulators, benchmarkers, and verifiers—to demonstrate progress in responsible purchasing practices.

Cascale is currently accepting participants for this year’s BBPI rating cycle, which opens on October 1, 2025.

Cascale Announces Better Buying Asset Purchase to Advance Responsible Purchasing Practices and Decent Work for All

  • Responsible Purchasing Practices
  • Better Buying

Integration of Better Buying tools and methodologies positions Cascale to amplify supplier voices, promote industry accountability, and foster more resilient global supply chains.

Dry cleaning ironing clothes. Female workers clean cloth chemical process. Laundry industrial factory dry-cleaning.
February 04, 2025

Integration of Better Buying tools and methodologies positions Cascale to amplify supplier voices, promote industry accountability, and foster more resilient global supply chains.

Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Oakland (CA) – February 4, 2025: Cascale, the global nonprofit alliance formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, today announced the purchase of key assets of Better Buying Institute (BBI), including the widely-recognized Better Buying Purchasing Practices Index (BBPPI) and the Better Buying Partnership Index (BBPI).  This milestone reflects Cascale’s commitment to advancing responsible purchasing practices and promoting fair, accountable, and socially just supply chains.

The purchase of key BBI assets strengthens Cascale’s ability to address critical supply chain challenges such as unfair purchasing practices—behaviors like last-minute order changes, delayed payments, and below-cost pricing—that harm manufacturers and workers while destabilizing supply chains. By integrating BBI’s tools and methodologies and employing the BBI staff, Cascale is more equipped to promote the adoption of fair purchasing practices with brands and manufacturers, empowering facilities to plan effectively, improve labor conditions, and ensure fair wages. This directly aligns with Cascale’s Support Decent Work for All strategic pillar, which addresses systemic labor challenges and works to drive safe, fair, and dignified working conditions throughout global supply chains.

“Incorporating Better Buying’s tools into Cascale is a pivotal step in transforming supply chain relationships,” said Colin Browne, CEO of Cascale. “These proven methodologies will enable us to tackle systemic challenges such as unfair purchasing practices, amplify supplier voices, and advance meaningful industry-wide change. Moreover, this work will align seamlessly with our Decent Work for All strategic pillar, furthering our mission to foster fairer, more equitable supply chains that prioritize people and the planet.”

Guided by Dr. Marsha Dickson’s vision, BBI has been instrumental in putting responsible purchasing practices firmly on the global agenda. Dr. Dickson, president and co-founder of BBI, said, “Better Buying Institute’s decision to align with Cascale is a strategic choice to ensure our mission—to improve purchasing practices—can achieve greater scale and impact. By integrating our tools and methodologies into Cascale, we can continue driving positive change while benefiting from Cascale’s extensive networks and strategic resources to maximize industry transformation. Cascale and BBI already share significant alignment on mission and goals, as well as many members and subscribers, and the acquisition of these valuable assets by Cascale is perhaps the most logical solution for them.” Dr. Dickson will work with Cascale as a consultant during this transition to support the integration.

Anant Ahuja, director, ESG and sustainability at Shahi Exports and BBI board member, said, “Advancing responsible purchasing practices is central to driving a sustainable fashion industry. This transition presents a crucial opportunity to strengthen accountability across the apparel value chain and foster greater alignment between brands and manufacturers. This is a pivotal moment to reinforce shared responsibility and build more equitable and collaborative business relationships.”

“This milestone underscores Cascale’s role in uniting stakeholders and driving accountability across the industry,” said Fiona Sadler, Cascale board director and global head of responsible sourcing at Marks & Spencer, a Better Buying Partnership Index subscriber. “Cascale’s global reach and resources provide a powerful platform to scale the impact of Better Buying tools, ensuring their reach extends further than before. By integrating these proven methodologies in Cascale, we can empower companies to strengthen supplier relationships, improve purchasing practices, and drive measurable progress in labor conditions and environmental performance. This transformative step paves the way for a future where buyers and suppliers collaborate more effectively to address shared challenges, from workers’ rights to sustainability, creating lasting systemic change.”

Alexander Kohnstamm, executive director at Fair Wear, said, “As Cascale’s content partner on decent work and responsible purchasing practices, we support Cascale’s investment in Better Buying’s future. We look forward to continued work with Cascale and other key stakeholders to create a strong ecosystem of approaches and tools aligned towards the goal of equitable partnerships between brands and suppliers. This is a crucial factor in improving working conditions for the people who make our clothes.”

Cascale is committed to maintaining data protection, trust, and continuity throughout this transition. Suppliers will continue contributing their data and insights anonymously and securely, with all existing safeguards remaining fully intact. The integration process will be seamless, ensuring no immediate changes to pricing or access for BBI tool subscribers and Cascale members.

 

ABOUT CASCALE

Cascale is the global nonprofit alliance empowering collaboration to drive equitable and restorative business practices in the consumer goods industry. Spanning over 300 retailers, brands, manufacturers, governments, academics, and NGO/nonprofit affiliates around the globe, we are united by a singular vision: To catalyze impact at scale and give back more than we take to the planet and its people. Formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cascale owns and develops the Higg Index and a unified strategy for industry transformation. LinkedIn | X | Instagram | Facebook | YouTube

ABOUT BETTER BUYING INSTITUTE

In February 2025, Cascale, the global nonprofit alliance formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, announced the purchase of key assets of Better Buying Institute (BBI). BBI reimagines supply chain sustainability, leveraging data to strengthen supplier-buyer relationships and improve purchasing practices that drive profitability while protecting workers and the environment. Its programs provide retailers, brands, suppliers, and the industry with data-driven insights to help drive lasting improvements in global purchasing practices. BBI’s activities fall into three main areas: conducting independent research; operating a ratings and evaluation platform that provides buyers and the public with information about buyer purchasing practices; and conducting projects and training on supply chain industry practices to support innovation and promote change.