Here, Andrew Martin EVP of Cascale divulges key takeaways from European policymakers and the topics from Cascale’s Brand & Retail Forum.
Faced with uncertainty in the regulatory environment and the wider industry and a climate crisis more certain than ever, the time for talking and delivering on collaboration, harmonization and policy (believe it or not) has never been more urgent.
Reflecting as I come to the end of the year, with the buzz of our recent Cascale Brand & Retail Forum and the Policy Hub Round tables, in Brussels still ringing in my ears, it gives me hope to to be able to say that I saw first-hand how spirited and excited people are about being a part of this change. At our event – which drew together brands, retailers, manufacturers, supply chain partners, stakeholders, and of course, an impressive representation of policymakers – we discussed what really matters.
Inspired, yet also challenged, it is essential that we bridge unspoken divides, elevate key voices, and stand together as one industry – aligned. Here, I’ll walk you through a few of my insights, as well as what our Policy and Public Affairs team observed at our recent event.
First and foremost, alignment is key. The challenge to us from the policy makers couldn’t have been clearer. Alignment across the supply chain isn’t just beneficial — it’s essential for presenting a unified industry voice capable of ensuring evolving regulatory demands are meaningful and impactful.
At the EU level, the Policy Hub continues to serve as a pivotal platform for technical and detailed collaboration. It’s here that brands, manufacturers, NGOs, MSIs, and other stakeholders can influence policy decisions and advocate for a harmonized regulatory framework. This is a can’t-miss step to ensuring fair competition across the industry.
Quite a lot of our Higg Index users were in attendance at the event, and rightly so, as we discussed how the Higg Index is helping companies navigate regulatory requirements. It’s important to emphasize these tools are not static; they evolve alongside regulatory landscapes to support businesses on their compliance journeys.
But let’s be clear: there’s no such thing as a simple “tick-the-box” solution when it comes to compliance. Compliance requires active engagement from both brands and manufacturers. However, EU policies such as the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence (CS3D) and Corporate Sustainability Reporting (CSRD) Directives act as a positive lever for change.
A recurring theme throughout the event was the value of knowledge and data. Transparent supply chains, meaningful and impactful human rights due diligence, and a deep understanding of product composition are now non-negotiable for ensuring both compliance and beyond. Colleagues such as Carolina van Loenen, Cascale’s director, stakeholder engagement, alongside Open Supply Hub’s stakeholder engagement director Hannah Lennett, and Fair Wear Foundation’s head of industry alignment, Lisa Süss, brought this to life in a hands-on workshop and dialogue with members and stakeholders. The European Commission was also strongly represented in the mix including DG GROW’s Dr. Amaryllis Verhoeven and António de Sousa Maia, DG FISMA’s CSR financial analyst Kate Frisby, DG Justice and Consumers’ Dan Dionisie, and DG Environment’s policy officer Carsten Wentink.
Another point worth championing is the importance of elevating the voice of manufacturers in legislative discussions. Their perspectives and expertise are vital to crafting regulations that are not only effective but also equitable across the entire supply chain. While we are pleased with a good showing in this respect with friends like Lenzing Group, Gore, Hidramani, and Sympatex in attendance, there is so much more we need to do here and Cascale is committed to doing just this.
Not to mention, we were able to get behind the scenes of policy-making with the “Immersive EU Experience.” This allowed us to tour the EU Parliament led by a European Parliament Representative. The tour provided invaluable insights into the legislative workings of the EU. We had the chance to discuss key legislative impacts on the consumer goods industry and made way for an open question-and-answer session with key policy makers as well as the Policy Hub and Cascale teams.
While I believe the event was a successful one, the work is not yet done. As the industry moves forward, the message is clear: collaboration, transparency, and proactive engagement are the ways forward. For those who missed it, I hope you will join us at future events and sign up for our Public Affairs and Policy newsletter.
Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Oakland (CA) – November 19, 2024: As the policy landscape evolves at an unprecedented pace, understanding the implications of these changes is more critical than ever. From the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) to the Ecodesing for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) , staying ahead of regulations isn’t just about compliance – it’s about positioning business for long-term success. To ensure that brands, retailers, manufacturers and supply chain partners in the apparel, footwear, textiles, and broader consumer goods sectors are well-equipped to keep pace, Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, will host its Brand & Retail Forum: Brussels on December 4, sponsored by Worldly, the most comprehensive sustainability data insights platform and exclusive licensee of the Higg Index.
“The competitiveness of the apparel and textile sector relies on circularity, digitalization and innovation for the good of the environment, consumers, workers and businesses alike,” said Dr. Amaryllis Verhoeven, Acting Director, Tourism, Textiles, Digital Transformation of Industry and Social Economy, European Commission, DG GROW, who will give the opening keynote.
“The urgency of the climate crisis and the critical need for social justice in supply chains places the apparel and textile sector at a pivotal moment of transformation,” said Andrew Martin, Cascale executive vice president. “As we navigate these changes, collaboration between policymakers, industry leaders, and stakeholders is essential to building a sustainable, competitive, and future-proof consumer goods industry. By focusing our efforts on more equitable participation and measurable progress, Cascale is laying the groundwork to ensure the sector thrives while contributing to the EU’s broader goals of sustainability and consumer well-being. Brand & Retail Forum: Brussels provides a critical opportunity to shape the sustainability conversation for the coming decade, and build a more sustainable and equitable future.”
“Our partnership with Cascale is grounded in a shared commitment to helping apparel and consumer goods businesses make measurable progress on social and environmental sustainability and prepare for regulatory requirements,” said Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly. “We’re providing companies with the critical data and insights they need to understand their impacts and make informed decisions to drive improvements. This collaboration is about empowering businesses to take meaningful steps forward, transforming their operations in ways that benefit both people and the planet.”
The event’s theme – “Policy Dialogue in Action: Finding Common Ground for a Sustainable Consumer Goods Industry” – speaks directly to the urgent need to collectively shape the future of sustainability. Cascale believes that regulation is essential to driving meaningful change and is working diligently to identify and address current and potential gaps between the Higg Index and evolving legislation with key stakeholders, including Worldly. At the Brand & Retail Forum: Brussels, attendees will engage in discussions with EU leadership, network with key policymakers and top industry leaders driving the regulatory agenda, and explore current and upcoming EU legislation. In addition to the December 4 event, which is open to the public, attendees will also have the exclusive opportunity to participate in an immersive experience on December 5, hosted at the European Parliament. This special limited-availability side event, which is not open to media attendees, will include a private tour and a meet and greet with MEPs providing deeper legislative insights and networking opportunities.
“At Zalando, we encourage EU policymakers to establish a consistent regulatory framework that will not only enhance consumer trust but also provide more legal guidance for companies,” said Pascal Brun, Vice President of Sustainability and Diversity & Inclusion at Zalando, who will engage in a closing fireside chat. “Both the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) challenge the industry to set higher standards in measuring and mitigating environmental and social impacts. By embracing these directives, we aim to facilitate more informed choices for our customers, empowering them to make decisions that align with their values”
“The transition towards sustainability in the textile sector requires a technical and holistic approach, addressing all aspects of the industry,” said Marina Prados Espínola, Co-Director of the Policy Hub – Circularity for Apparel & Footwear. “At the Policy Hub – Circularity for Apparel & Footwear, we believe that implementing this transition must account for the diverse realities of the sector, with ongoing discussions on technical details to understand precise impacts and drive meaningful change. Events like the Cascale Brands & Retail Forum offer an invaluable opportunity to delve into policy developments and align with political priorities in the new EU agenda for textiles sustainability and circularity.”
Additional speakers include: Magnus Dorsch, Head of Corporate Sustainability, About You; Dan Dionisie, Head of Unit, Company Law, DG JUST, European Commission; Matjaz Malgaj, Head of Unit, ESPR, DG ENV, European Commission; Romane Malysza, Public Affairs Strategist, Textile Exchange; Greta Koch, Parliamentary Assistant to MEP Axel Voss (EPP), European Parliament; Marie-Pierre Vedrenne (Renew), Member of the European Parliament; Katarzyna Sulisz, Senior Policy Officer, Federation of the European Sporting Goods Industry (FESI); Chelsea Murtha, Senior Director, Sustainability, AAFA; Dorothy Lovell, Garment and Footwear Lead, OECD Centre for Responsible Business Conduct; Krishna Manda, Vice President of Corporate Sustainability, Lenzing AG; John Armstrong, Chief Technology Officer, Worldly; Tom Mason, Senior Manager, Public Affairs & Stakeholder Engagement, SLCP; and Lisa Süss, Head of Industry Alignment, Fair Wear Foundation, among others. Please visit this page for more information or to register for the Brand & Retail Forum: Brussels 2024, sponsored by Worldly.
ABOUT CASCALE
Cascale is the global nonprofit alliance empowering collaboration to drive equitable and restorative business practices in the consumer goods industry. Formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cascale owns and develops the Higg Index, which is exclusively available on Worldly, the most comprehensive sustainability data and insights platform. Cascale unites over 300 retailers, brands, manufacturers, governments, academics, and NGO/nonprofit affiliates around the globe through one singular vision: To catalyze impact at scale and give back more than we take to the planet and its people.
As we approach the end of 2024, the textile, apparel and footwear industry, as well as broader consumer goods, is at a crucial juncture.
The regulatory landscape, especially in the EU, is rapidly evolving, placing new demands on businesses across the value chain. Cascale membership considers it a priority in recent member surveys. With soon-to-be-applicable regulations like the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) and many more, there is no better time to focus on policy and its implications for the future of our industry.
For both manufacturers and brands, these regulations represent not only a challenge but also an opportunity. Companies need to act swiftly to ensure compliance while leveraging sustainability as a competitive advantage. This is why Cascale is hosting the Brand & Retail Forum in Brussels on December 4, 2024, to bring together leaders, policymakers, and industry experts to discuss these critical issues.
The CSRD, which requires companies to disclose detailed information on sustainability risks, targets, and impacts, is set to have far-reaching consequences for businesses operating within the EU. It demands that companies report on environmental, social, and governance (ESG) factors more comprehensively than ever before. While these regulations were initially targeted at large companies, they will soon affect smaller businesses and suppliers, requiring the entire value chain to elevate their reporting standards.
Similarly, the CSDDD mandates that businesses conduct due diligence across their supply chains, focusing on human rights, labor conditions, and environmental risks. This is particularly relevant for companies that operate globally, sourcing materials from regions with varying environmental and social standards. Meeting these requirements will be a significant task, especially for manufacturers in the Global South. Luckily, many manufacturers, such as Busana Group in Indonesia, are hopeful and committed to staying the course to create a sustainable future for our industry.
The challenge for businesses is clear: compliance requires not only transparency but also accountability across multiple tiers of their supply chains. For companies in the apparel, textile and footwear industry, this means understanding where emissions, waste, and labor issues arise—and taking concrete steps to address them.
Recent Higg Index updates, developed with input from hundreds of stakeholders, including manufacturers, reflect the need for transparency and consistent data in sustainability reporting. By helping companies streamline compliance with EU directives, such as how Higg BRM supports CSRD reporting obligations, the Higg Index tools serve as essential resources for businesses looking to future-proof their operations in the face of regulatory changes, and Cascale is positioned to lead and support.
Policy changes can be daunting, especially for companies trying to navigate complex supply chains. That’s why we are committed to educating and supporting our Cascale members through these shifts. Through ongoing collaborative work with the Policy Hub as well as timely educational resources, Cascale’s role is to act as a bridge, offering our members the guidance and tools they need to succeed. Our goal is to ensure that businesses, from small manufacturers to global brands, have the knowledge and resources to comply with current regulations like CSRD and CSDDD, and incoming legislation, without compromising their competitive edge.
As we move toward 2025, companies must prioritize decarbonization, supply chain transparency, and ethical practices. The Brand & Retail Forum in Brussels offers an ideal platform to dive into these issues, explore solutions, and develop strategies that will enable businesses to thrive in this new regulatory environment. Beyond 2024, companies that integrate sustainability into their core business strategy will not only comply with regulations but also drive long-term growth and resilience.
We invite all industry leaders, from brands to manufacturers, to join us on December 4 for a day of insightful discussions, networking, and actionable takeaways. This is your opportunity to stay ahead of the curve, ensure your business is compliant, and contribute to a more sustainable and equitable future for the textile and apparel industry.
This forum was a unique opportunity to connect with EU policymakers and industry leaders, and explore the future of sustainability in the consumer goods industry.
