Cascale Presents at Avery Dennison’s First Apparel Manufacturing Summit

  • Membership
  • Manufacturing
Close-up photo of a person's hands working at a sewing machine
November 12, 2024

Andrew Martin, executive vice president, Cascale participated in the inaugural global apparel factory summit hosted by Avery Dennison, a Cascale member at the forefront of sustainability and innovation.

Avery Dennison is a global materials science and digital identification solutions company that provides a wide range of branding and information solutions that optimize labor and supply chain efficiency, reduce waste, advance sustainability, circularity and transparency, and better connect brands and consumers. The event took place in Singapore in September and attendees included a select group of owners and CEOs of manufacturing facilities in Asia and Europe. Presentations and discussions centered around challenges in the supply chain, from traceability to circularity.

In a fireside chat, Martin began by sharing the main purpose of his attendance: to listen to the concerns and challenges of manufacturers—voices that need greater attention, especially in the context of traceability—and to explore how Cascale, in its role as a convener of the entire value chain, can support them. He examined how the supply chain must work together to unlock transparency and traceability. Both referenced data from Cascale’s Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) tool, which is exclusively available on Worldly. The Higg FEM is a transformative tool used to assess the environmental impact of product manufacturing at facilities, from water use to waste management, to chemical and energy use.

Martin’s presentation was especially relevant to attendees in showcasing how transformative Higg FEM data is for advancing facility improvements while reducing redundancy. He emphasized the value of the Higg Index tools in offering standardized approaches and highlighted Cascale’s crucial role in reducing duplication, increasing harmonization, and ensuring consistency, particularly in the context of data collection for traceability in response to upcoming regulations. Additional speakers included Steve Lamar, president and CEO of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), among others.

Martin also shared learnings from Cascale members, noting that since much of the, legislation, —such as the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting & Due Diligence  Directives (CSRD & CSDDD), Eco-Design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), and Digital Product Passport (DPP), and the US’s Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA),—are still pending further clarification, and even aligned implementation, the focus of ESG data collection processes is still being focused just on compliance with specific data points. He emphasized however that the importance of the industry  shifting towards traceability, that enables more effective due diligence, risk identification, and opportunities for and verification of ESG progress.

Martin emphasized the importance of making sustainability information transparent at the site level, a core component of traceability, defined as “the process of creating visibility of materials, products, and the information in which they were produced through the supply chain, to ensure the accountability of environmental and social progress.” He characterized the burden that traceability places on manufacturers as “irrational” and called for rapid collaboration on pragmatic interventions to harmonize the ESG data reporting landscape, standardizing supply chain data points, align data collection templates and questionnaires, and harmonizing data requests and verification cycles.

He also mentioned initiatives like Cascale’s decarbonization programs, including the Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP), inviting attendees to consider their involvement.

A Manufacturer’s Perspective: Busana Group’s CEO Sunil Shewakramani on Why He Prioritizes Collaboration, Data, and Sustainability

  • Manufacturing

In a new recurring series “A Manufacturer’s Perspective,” manufacturers share their ideas, visions, and lessons in sustainability. First up, Busana Group’s CEO Sunil Shewakramani.

Photo of Sunil Shewakramani
October 28, 2024

As the CEO of Busana Group, a family-owned business based in Indonesia, I am proud to reflect on our nearly 50-year journey in the textile manufacturing industry.

Over the years, we’ve grown into a mid-to-large-scale company with a diverse product portfolio, including denim, athleisure, men’s shirts, ladies’ soft dressing, and outerwear. With 24 factories in Indonesia and joint ventures in countries like Jordan, Bangladesh, India, and Ethiopia, we’ve built a solid foundation based on innovation, sustainability, and a people-centric approach. We employ around 34,000 people, of whom 92 percent are women, and we are committed to fostering a stable, skilled workforce.

At Busana Group, sustainability is more than just a buzzword — it’s part of our DNA. Our journey toward environmental, social, and governance (ESG) goals began back in 1982, long before ESG became an industry staple. It started with a focus on social impact—caring for our people and fostering community development. Over time, this expanded into environmental impact, where we prioritized energy efficiency, automation, and sustainable practices. We’ve always believed in doing good simply because it’s the right thing to do.

As a result, our sustainability initiatives have led to tangible improvements in efficiency, employee well-being, and environmental outcomes. One example is our LEED Platinum-certified factory, which set a global benchmark for green manufacturing when it was established in 2017. This factory, the highest-rated globally, reflects our commitment to not only meeting but exceeding industry standards. It’s investments like these that demonstrate our belief in doing well by doing good — combining ethical values with operational excellence.

But sustainability isn’t just about the environment; it’s about people and profits too. At Busana Group, we believe in the intersection of people, planet, and profit, and see this approach as a long-term competitive advantage. The journey hasn’t always been easy, but it’s been rewarding, and it’s shaped who we are as a company today.

A key driver of our sustainability efforts is data. The ability to measure and track environmental and social performance is critical to making informed decisions and driving continuous improvement. This is why tools like the Higg Index, which we’ve been using for several years, are invaluable. The Higg Facility Environmental Module (Higg FEM) provides us with a standardized framework to measure our environmental performance, identify gaps, and drive improvements across our operations. This kind of data-driven approach ensures that we stay on top of our sustainability goals, constantly pushing forward toward higher standards.

We’re also proud to be part of Cascale, the largest coalition in the fashion and consumer goods industry, where collaboration is key. Our membership gives us access to resources like the Higg Index and the broader sustainability network, allowing us to engage with brands, suppliers, and stakeholders on a deeper level. Being part of Cascale aligns with our vision of not just being a participant in the industry, but helping to lead the charge in sustainability through collective action.

As we continue to work with Cascale and leverage tools like the Higg Index, one of the most important aspects we’ve observed is the need for better alignment between brands and manufacturers. As a tier-one supplier, we play a crucial role in providing the data that brands need to meet regulatory requirements, address climate issues, and drive sustainability across the supply chain. But it’s clear that more needs to be done to bring all stakeholders — brands, manufacturers, tier-two and tier-three suppliers — into the same conversation. This is where organizations like Cascale can play a pivotal role by facilitating collaboration and setting joint sustainability goals for the entire supply chain.

The road ahead for the fashion and consumer goods industry is challenging, but the potential for meaningful, long-term impact is immense. Regulations are tightening, customer expectations are shifting, and the demand for transparency and traceability is greater than ever. In this evolving landscape, the role of data and collaboration cannot be overstated. At Busana Group, we are committed to being part of the solution, working hand in hand with our partners and leveraging tools like the Higg Index to drive meaningful change across the industry.

Our work is far from over, but I believe we are on the right path. As we move forward, we will continue to innovate, collaborate, and push the boundaries of what’s possible in sustainable manufacturing. By working together with our peers, brands, and stakeholders, we can create a more sustainable, transparent, and equitable future for the industry—and for the planet.

Sunil Shewakramani is the CEO of Busana Group, an Indonesia-based global apparel manufacturer.

 

Elevating Manufacturer Voices at the Forefront of Sustainable Transformation

  • Manufacturing
Black and white headshot of Lee Green
Lee Green
August 07, 2024

As the global fashion industry continues to grapple with the complexities of sustainability, one truth stands out: the voices of manufacturers are paramount.

This was the resounding message at Cascale’s recent Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai, held in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai. This event, part of our ongoing series, underscores the importance of pre-competitive collaboration and highlights the critical role manufacturers play in driving sustainable change.

Reflecting on Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai

The Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai was more than just an event; it was a convergence of ideas, solutions, and partnerships. With over 200 attendees, including manufacturers, business leaders, and stakeholders, the forum provided a platform to address local challenges and explore solutions. These included Cascale’s Higg Index tools and impact initiatives, like those on decarbonization. The event was a testament to our commitment to fostering an open exchange between manufacturers and understanding their needs to jointly develop solutions.

Our CEO, Colin Browne, emphasized the crucial role of manufacturers in his opening address. “China is a premier production hub and manufacturers here are truly the architects of transformation,” Browne stated. “From combating climate change to delivering decent work for all and building a nature-positive future, manufacturers are critical to achieving our collective goals.”

The Importance of Manufacturer Engagement

Our forums are designed to be catalysts for change, reflecting our theme for the current series. The Shanghai event covered a wide range of topics, from global policy updates and strategic partnerships to the evolution of Higg FEM, and decarbonization impacts. These sessions are not just about sharing knowledge but about empowering manufacturers to take actionable steps towards sustainability; goals supported by Cascale’s onsite training sessions.

The discussions in Shanghai highlighted that manufacturers –especially those in climate-induced risk zones in China, Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam –are poised to offer crucial solutions. Their firsthand experiences with climate adaptation amidst pressing monsoons and heatwaves provide invaluable insights. However, the success of these initiatives depends on the active engagement and collaboration of all stakeholders, including brands and NGOs. Buyers must leverage their platforms and influence to drive change through verifiable decarbonization targets, responsible purchasing practices, and social and labor best practices.

Looking Ahead: Annual Meeting in Munich

The importance of these conversations will be further amplified at our upcoming Annual Meeting in Munich this September. This event will not only reflect the progress made but will also set the stage for future initiatives. However, it is crucial for our entire membership base to engage beyond attending events. True change comes from implementing the insights gained and working collaboratively towards our shared goals.

At Cascale, we believe events like the Manufacturer Forum are critical in shaping a sustainable future. They provide the necessary platform for open dialogue, shared learning, and collective action. As we move forward, we remain committed to amplifying the voices of manufacturers and ensuring they remain at the forefront of our sustainability efforts.

We look forward to seeing our members actively participate and drive the transformative changes needed to create a more restorative and equitable industry. Members are encouraged to join us in Munich to continue these vital conversations and work together for a better future.

Inside Epic Group’s Sustainably-Minded Factory in Bangladesh

  • Membership
  • Manufacturing

Andrew Martin, EVP at Cascale, traces his visit to Hong Kong-based manufacturer Epic Group’s CIPL facility in Bangladesh showcasing sustainable innovation and a responsible future ahead.

Photo of Andrew Martin visiting an Epic Group factory
Black and white headshot of Andrew Martin
Andrew Martin
July 15, 2024

It’s one thing for a company to talk about their sustainability commitments, and it’s another thing entirely to show them off – and invite someone into their production lines for a closer look.

In Bangladesh earlier this year, I had the privilege of touring Cascale member Epic Group’s CIPL facility. Like Cascale, Hong Kong-based manufacturer Epic Group is committed to improving the way they do things. This commitment, or “Relentless Pursuit of Better” as they’ve called it, equates to a sizable impact across their 200 production lines and 9 facilities (to the tune of 120 million garments per year)! Since 2005, they have continued to push their standards in delivering value-added, world-class manufacturing in apparel that favors quality, value, and sustainable innovation.

What is Epic Group’s innovation exactly? During my tour, I saw how continued investment in new factories and technology pays for itself in the long haul. I witnessed the first-hand investments made in automation, RFID-based production tracking, worker performance systems, and upgraded laundry machines. I also observed their state-of-the-art Effluent Treatment Plant, which meets Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) aspirational discharge standards and reuses 50 percent of treated effluent back into operations. This is essential given the uphill battle of wages, energy, and data costs. More important than ever is standardization, accelerating away from proprietary requests and moving towards convergence.

So what does that mean at an assessment level? I had really great robust conversations with Vidhura Ralapanawe, (Epic Group’s executive vice president, Sustainability & Innovation and Cascale Board Director) and the team, and we all agreed that assessments need to adapt to the times, meaning satisfying standardized industry-wide accepted reporting requirements while adapting to current and upcoming regulations. However, beyond this it was clear that  further expectations should be razor focused only on setting up factories for improvements over time, while avoiding the addition of unnecessary burdens sometimes often imposed by individual companies that don’t add value to performance improvement. After all, this is at the very core of Cascale’s origin story.

We had productive discussions on Epic Group’s ongoing sustainability journey and future goals to halve their water and carbon footprints by 2030.

Because let’s not forget – this year is a pivotal year. We can’t tolerate climate commitments falling by the wayside. Scientists warned of surpassing critical limits, and February marked a year-long trend of global temperatures above the 1.5-degrees Celsius according to the European Union’s Copernicus Climate Change Service. It’s why the efforts of global manufacturers like Epic Group matter and must be complemented by collective efforts across people and planet.

Though I’ve seen many factories in my 30-year career in global textile supply chains – from development of Olympic and World Cup-winning performance fabrics to operational improvements in factories – this tour left me with deeper inspiration.

I’m excited about how Cascale and Epic Group can continue to collaborate to raise sustainability standards across the apparel industry through collective action with brands, manufacturers, and other stakeholders – including elected officials. With the European Union’s recent approval of the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CS3D), which is a positive step forward, I am motivated to see how responsibility becomes the norm.

Photos courtesy of Epic Group

Manufacturers Critical to Tackling the Climate Crisis, Declares Cascale CEO Colin Browne

  • Manufacturing

In June, Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, welcomed over 200 attendees and 25 industry speakers to the Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai.

July 12, 2024

In June, Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, welcomed over 200 attendees and 25 industry speakers to the Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai.

The day-long event, held in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai, is part of Cascale’s ongoing event series that amplifies the voices of manufacturers around the globe.

 

 

Building on the “Catalyst for Change” theme, which has linked the organization’s recent manufacturer-led events in Bangalore, Dhaka, and Shenzhen, Cascale’s Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai featured targeted programming designed to address local challenges faced by manufacturers. This included solutions provided by the Higg Index, as well as Cascale’s growing list of impact initiatives, including the Manufacturer Climate Impact Program (MCAP).

It was the first Cascale event for Colin Browne, who became Cascale’s CEO in May. His attendance is a testament to his commitment to engage with manufacturers, understand their concerns and challenges, and elevate their voices on the global stage. This mission-critical approach from Cascale was further supported by the attendance of Board Member Dr. Delman Lee, vice chair at TAL Apparel Limited, and Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly, the leader in environmental and social impact data for the apparel and footwear industry, which provides the exclusive platform for Cascale’s Higg Index tools.

In his opening address to the manufacturer-heavy crowd, Browne commented: “Part of my job is to amplify the voices of the experts and the manufacturers are the key experts in helping to solve many of the challenges we face today. […] I chose this as my first place to come and speak because it is so incredibly important to me that we work with manufacturers to find a way to bring your voices to the table.”

The Shanghai event reinforced the organization’s commitment to support an open exchange between manufacturers and better understand their needs and ongoing challenges to jointly develop solutions. With attendees reflecting the entire value chain – including manufacturers, service providers, industry stakeholders, strategic partners, brands and retailers, NGOs, academia, and government officials – the event facilitated pre-competitive collaboration in order to share best practices and collectively address critical challenges. Key discussions included:

  • Exploring Decarbonization Strategies and Climate Change Mitigation
  • Establishing Effective Science-Based Targets
  • Navigating Future Legislation: Implications for Manufacturers
  • Examining Critical Data: A Comparison of Higg FEM 3.0 and 4.0
  • Prioritizing Workplace Health and Safety Initiatives
  • Sharing Insights: Best Practices from Cascale Members and Stakeholders

Event sponsors included Benchmarks, TÜV Rheinland, Worldly, ESTS Global, GreenPont, and Stantec. Click here to learn more about Cascale’s Manufacturer Forums.

Cascale to Center Sustainability at Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai

  • Manufacturing
June 06, 2024

Cascale’s ongoing event series amplifies the voices of manufacturers around the globe; event to be held in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai.

Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Oakland (CA) – June 6, 2024: Cascale (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition) will host Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai on June 28, part of an annual series of events designed to amplify the voices of manufacturers around the globe. Featuring targeted programming designed to address local challenges faced by manufacturers, the event will highlight solutions provided by Cascale’s Higg Index suite of tools and growing list of impact initiatives. The event takes place at the Shanghai New International Expo Center in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai, the unique, multi-segment summer trade show.

Following successful runs in Bangalore, Dhaka, and Shenzhen, Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai will further facilitate pre-competitive collaboration in order to share best practices and collectively address critical challenges. Keynote speakers include Colin Browne, the organization’s newly-appointed CEO, and Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly, Cascale’s technology partner and event sponsor.

“China is a premiere production hub and manufacturers here are truly the architects of transformation,” Browne said. “From combating climate change to delivering decent work for all and building a nature-positive future, manufacturers are critical to achieving our collective goals. It’s a priority for me to foster collaboration with manufacturers around the world. Together, we will co-create solutions that will transform the consumer goods industry into one that gives back more than it takes to people and the planet.”

“Many of Worldly’s customers are manufacturers based in China, and I am looking forward to engaging with them at the Manufacturer Forum hosted by Cascale in Shanghai,” said Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly. “Manufacturers are crucial in driving social and environmental impacts. In partnership with Cascale, we will strengthen our collaboration with these manufacturing facilities, equipping them with advanced tools and insights to meet their sustainability objectives and fortify their relationships with their brand partners.”

Reflecting “Catalyst for Change,” the current theme of Cascale’s Manufacturer Forum series, the Shanghai event reinforces the organization’s commitment to support an open exchange between manufacturers and better understand their needs and ongoing challenges to jointly develop solutions.

Over 200 attendees are expected to attend the event, which brings together manufacturers with business leaders and critical stakeholders. Programming will cover a wide range of topics, including what manufacturers need to know about global policy, how strategic partnerships can drive industry change, the evolution of Higg FEM and verification processes, and the latest on decarbonization impacts. To aid goal and target-setting, there will also be dedicated training on setting Science-Based Targets for decarbonization, as part of an evolving and interactive program. Click here for more information and/or to register. Event sponsors currently include Worldly, Benchmarks, TÜV Rheinland, ESTS Global, and Stantec.

 

ABOUT CASCALE

Cascale is the global nonprofit alliance empowering collaboration to drive equitable and restorative business practices in the consumer goods industry. Spanning over 300 retailers, brands, manufacturers, governments, academics, and NGO/nonprofit affiliates around the globe, we are united by a singular vision: To catalyze impact at scale and give back more than we take to the planet and its people. Formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cascale owns and develops the Higg Index and a unified strategy for industry transformation.

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Sustainable Apparel Coalition to Host Manufacturer Forum in Bangladesh

  • Higg Index Tools
  • Manufacturing
February 14, 2024

San Francisco, Amsterdam, Hong Kong – February 14, 2024: The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) will host its first Manufacturer Forum of 2024 on March 6 in Dhaka, Bangladesh; the event will be held alongside the Sustainable Apparel Forum, which will be hosted by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange on March 5. Reflecting the theme “Catalyst for Change,” the Manufacturer Forum: Dhaka will underscore the pivotal role of manufacturers to set and achieve goals that are transforming the consumer goods industry, highlighting the unique challenges they face and providing support for collaborative solutions.

Over 200 attendees are expected at the Manufacturer Forum: Dhaka, where they will gain insights into the newly launched Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP), the Higg Index suite of tools, and critical policy developments. Participants can also receive hands-on training in and get certified in setting Science-Based Targets (SBTs) for decarbonization, as well as join interactive workshops on completing the Higg Facilities Environmental Module (FEM) 4.0, health and safety remediation plans, and workers rights.

“We are thrilled to host our inaugural Manufacturer Forum of 2024 in Bangladesh and privileged that such an important sourcing hub, known for its craft and expertise, will be the first place we will showcase a new era for the SAC,” said Andrew Martin, executive vice president, SAC, who will give the opening address. “Solving complex sustainability challenges requires a holistic approach that depends on data, tools, and stakeholder collaboration. Manufacturers are the engine that drives the consumer goods industry and this event in Dhaka provides invaluable opportunities for connection, learning, and support as we work together to take collective action for industry progress.”

In 2023, the SAC announced the return of its flagship Manufacturer Forums after a hiatus of in-person events amid the pandemic. Since then, the SAC held its July forum in Shenzhen, China followed by Bangalore, India in December. The events bring together manufacturers – who are on the front lines of critical action – with business leaders and stakeholders to discuss the future of sustainability, supply chain compliance, verification, policy alignment, and more.

“SAC’s Manufacturer Forums are a valuable opportunity to connect and take action on the goals that unite us,” said Arindama Banerjee, associate director, client services/responsible sourcing at ELEVATE – An LRQA Company, the industry leader in sustainability and supply chain services globally. “We are thrilled to participate again this year.”

Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe, executive vice president, Epic Group and SAC board director, and Dr. Laxmikant Jawale, regional lead, South Asia & Southeast Asia, Apparel Impact Institute (Aii), will speak at the event. Additional speakers include SAC global team members and SAC members Primark, ELEVATE, a LRQA Company, and CYCLO® recycled fibers, among others. Representatives from organizations with which SAC collaborates, including Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH, and the Social & Labour Convergence Program (SLCP), among others, will also present.

SAC’s Manufacturer Forum: Dhaka is sponsored by Worldly, the leader in environmental and social impact data capture and analytics for the apparel and footwear industry, and the exclusive platform for the SAC’s Higg Index suite of tools; those interested in sponsorship can contact sacmeetings@apparelcoalition.org. The full list of speakers, as well as information on registration, is available on the SAC’s website. Collaborative opportunities at Manufacturer Forum: Dhaka are critical to driving equitable and restorative business practices related to the SAC’s three core pillars: Combat Climate Change, Decent Work for All, and Nature Positive Future.

 

— END —

About the Sustainable Apparel Coalition

The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a global, non-profit alliance of over 300 organizations in global apparel and consumer goods. Initially formed to create standardized sustainability metrics, the SAC has sharpened its focus to driving pre-competitive, collective action across three foundational pillars. As an independent entity, the SAC brings together brands, retailers, manufacturers, NGOs, academics, and industry associations to combat climate change, ensure decent work, and contribute to a nature-positive future. Central to the SAC’s mission is the Higg Index, a suite of comprehensive tools that empower members to measure, evaluate, and improve sustainability performance across the supply chain. To support evolving industry needs, the SAC also brings together a focus in policy, transparency, and programs for collective action.

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Sustainable Apparel Coalition Hosts Manufacturer Forum in Bangalore

Forum called for collaboration across the value chain to drive industry progress

  • Higg Index Tools
  • Manufacturing
  • Higg FEM
  • MCAP
Jeremy Lardeau speaking on stage at the Manufacturer Forum: Bangalore
December 14, 2023

Over 200 in-person attendees joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), for the second edition of its Manufacturer Forum, on December 4, 2023 in Bangalore, India. Building on the theme, Catalysts for Change, the event brought together business leaders and stakeholders to discuss the future of sustainability, supply chain compliance, verification, policy alignment, and more.

“The use of the Higg Index tools is just one step of many that we must take to solve the most complex sustainability challenges for the sector,” said Jeremy Lardeau, vice president Higg index at the SAC. “This is why we do not stop at delivering data and tools, but also develop programs and  events like Manufacturer Forums, where stakeholders can come together and take collective action for industry progress.”

Dr. Vidhura Ralapanawe, executive vice president at Epic Group and an SAC board director delivered a thoughtful keynote, calling for urgent action to combat climate change. “How much we do, and how fast we work to decarbonize, and how much we aspire to achieve is on us. Because climate change is not happening in 2030 or 2050, it’s happening now. This is our chance, our choice,” Ralapanawe said.

Dr. Laxmikant Jawale, regional lead for South Asia & Southeast Asia at the Apparel Impact Institute (Aii), and Erlinda Lee, director of global membership development from the SAC, delved into a discussion that explored the dynamic collaboration between the SAC and Aii. The session allowed attendees to gain a deeper understanding of the mission, purpose, and collaborative efforts of both organizations to propel the industry forward. It also provided valuable knowledge on how to leverage programs offered through the partnership to effectively tackle the challenges associated with decarbonization and how manufacturers can get involved

Later that day, sessions explored critical issues including climate change, how policy and legislation impacts manufacturers, and the evolving landscape of sustainability verification.

Ringo Yu, manager of the SAC’s Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP) highlighted the compounding impact of climate change, such as how extreme heat waves, torrential rain, and flooding impacts India’s community, natural environment, and economy. He shared that there’s currently a low level of science-based target adoption in the apparel, footwear, and textile sector. He shared insights on the newly launched program and how the SAC is spearheading and amplifying industry initiatives for combating climate change. The program aims to  accelerate the number of manufacturers at corporate level to set science-aligned targets for scope 1 and 2, enhance their understanding on climate change related risks, and explore opportunities to take climate actions. “It is important to pursue a leadership mindset first and take action individually to drive change collectively by participating in programs such as the MCAP,” Yu said.

Gauri Sharma, assistant general manager of communications and sustainability innovation at Shahi Exports Pvt Ltd. joined Mousumi Sarang, country manager for India at the Fair Wear Foundation to discuss the intricacies of current and future policy challenges in the textile industry. ”Legislations built and shaped in the Global North have a deep cascading effect in the supply chain, Sharma said. “Hence in the Global South, it is important to develop an understanding of what these means for manufacturers.”

Angela Ng, director of Higg Facility Tools at the SAC, Janne Koopmans, head of collaboration at ZDHC, and Yashinth Wijerathne, manager of environmental sustainability at Hirdaramani Apparel, discussed the recently launched Higg FEM 4.0 and its vital role in standardized measurement and accurate reporting. “The Higg FEM 4.0 allows manufacturers to see what is really important and evolve from there,” Ng said.

Dhawal Mane, director of training and verification at the SAC, and Jeremy Lardeau, SAC vice president of Higg Index, presented on the evolving landscape of sustainability verification within the industry. “Higg FEM verification growth over the past 5 years has demonstrated the collaboration of SAC members on a shared environmental assessment. It is time to simultaneously invest in value through evolving our approach for verification. Our Core verification approach this year is the first step in that direction,” Mane said.

Attendees also received training to support their Higg FEM 4.0 self-assessment, get certified in setting Science-Based Targets, and develop plans for health and safety remediation and workers rights.

The SAC announced the return of Manufacturer Forums earlier this year, with the first in-person event taking place in Shenzhen, China on July 25 at Sheraton Shenzhen Futian Hotel. This was the first in-person Manufacturer Forum the SAC had hosted since 2019.

The Bangalore Manufacturer Forum online photo gallery is available here. Manufacturers who are interested in participating in an upcoming Manufacturer Forum can click here to subscribe for updates.

Sustainable Apparel Coalition Dives Deep on Circularity, Decarbonization and Compliance at Sourcing Journal Fall Summit 2023

  • Manufacturing
  • Decarbonization
  • Circularity
Photo of people talking at a conference
November 10, 2023

Kaley Roshitsh, SAC editorial director, attended the Sourcing Journal Fall Summit for a deep dive into sourcing, as the pinnacle holiday sales season approaches. The event convened executives across sustainability disciplines for sessions on the politics of trade, managing volatility in supply chains, benchmarking and scaling circularity while securing garment provenance, among others.

Circularity Definition “Disconnect” 

At the conference, presentations underscored the fact that circularity is still top of mind – but circularity awareness is lagging despite perceived momentum, according to a 2023 circularity survey from Cotton Incorporated and Sourcing Journal. Melissa Bastos, director of corporate strategy and insights at Cotton Inc., reported findings of an “industry disconnect” and “a lot of confusion” around circular fashion. Per the survey, some 55 percent of consumer respondents were “unsure” of circularity’s meaning yet 40 percent were also “interested” in repair, resale and circular clothing avenues.

Meanwhile, 84 percent of industry executives said circularity influences design choices, and 69 percent reported interest in donating old products to be upcycled into housing insulation – the objective of Cotton Inc.’s “Blue Jeans Go Green” circularity program. Cotton Inc., along with Better Cotton, Cotton Connect, and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol are members of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.

Manufacturer-First Focus 

Manufacturing challenges were also a hot topic. “There is a gap in the market between what is demanded and what is required,” said Ebru Debbag, executive director-global sales and marketing at Soorty Enterprises Pvt. Ltd., in a session on supply chain volatility. She called for a stronger leadership proposition to prioritize suppliers in the decarbonization journey. According to Debbag, the company set their science-based emissions target of 54 percent, and aligned it with a transition to organic cotton.

Throughout the day, panelists agreed that suppliers are challenged by the costs of decarbonization. “We can’t go green if we’re in the red,” said Jasmin Malik Chua, sourcing and labor editor at Sourcing Journal, quoting a separate conversation with a manufacturer source.

Compliance, Provenance of Growing Concern

At a panel on compliance, speakers agreed that transparency is paramount to sustainable fashion brands. “The amount of visibility that is expected is only increasing,” said Marissa Brock, director, marketing and policy at Sourcemap, who was joined by executive panelists from Supima, Oritain and Alice & Olivia. Buxton Midyette, vice president marketing and promotions at Supima, said tracing Supima fibers, and fibers generally, is a “longstanding challenge,” and not one without its costs. Supima depends on 300 family farms in the U.S. for their fiber, and all hold a vested interest in identifying and tracing their cotton fibers in depth.

Ben Tomkins, vice president of retail sales at Oritain, added there is a “superficial level of compliance on supplier declarations,” which highlights the need for alignment at the ground level so suppliers aren’t stuck with duplicate audits.

In a separate conversation about textile recycling, Bryan Timm, Recover’s chief strategy officer, explained the company’s ongoing partnership with Oritain to identify cotton waste streams. “[The] Holy grail is to recycle the clothes you’re wearing, [and the] only way to do that is design with circularity,” Timm said. He also noted that the policy gaps around circular fashion are multifold but relevant to both Democrat and Republican lawmakers, who see the U.S. Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) as “100 percent bipartisan.” However, he emphasized, “as a supplier, you have to be responsible for what happens in your supply chain.”

Sustainable Apparel Coalition Joins Istanbul Apparel Conference “Transformative Journey”

  • Manufacturing
Andrew Martin speaking at IAC
October 24, 2023

Reflecting the Istanbul Apparel Conference’s 2023 theme, “Transformative Journey,” SAC Executive Vice President Andrew Martin shared information about Responsible Purchasing Practices (RPP) as part of a panel discussion on “Improving the Terms of Trade for Apparel Manufacturers.” Moderated by Matthijs Crietee, Secretary General of the International Apparel Federation (IAF), with whom the SAC recently announced a strategic collaboration, the panel also included Irem Yanpar Coşdan, Stakeholder Engagement Manager at Open Supply Hub, as well as a pre-recorded video presentation from John Thorbeck, Chairman of Chainge Capital LLC.

After sharing background information about the SAC, the global multi-stakeholder nonprofit alliance that represents a diverse global membership of over 280 members – about 50% of the apparel and textile industry – in 36 countries, Martin explained how the organization’s work is anchored by the Higg Index, a suite of tools that measures social and environmental impact. He then outlined the important role of RPP in the SAC’s revised strategic focus on “evolution for impact,” which centers around three key pillars: combat climate change, decent work for all, and nature positive future. “Our goal is to transform business for exponential impact through groundbreaking programs and tools, collaborative partnerships, and trusted leadership on industry sustainability,” Martin said. “Responsible purchasing practices are critical to achieving these goals; as we will never achieve our climate, work, and nature goals without responsible purchasing practices at the core.”

Martin explained that inequalities in textile and apparel supply chains hold the industry back, and that everyone at every stage of the value chain should be engaged in partnership to create a more just and resilient industry: “We need more equitable apparel supply chains to unlock a fairer and stronger industry where everyone is treated with respect and dignity. Without responsible purchasing practices, suppliers can be left in precarious financial positions. This not only translates into poor wages and working conditions for those on the factory floor, but also fails to address the investments needed to ensure an equitable decarbonisation of the industry.”

He shared how the SAC is supporting industry alignment, focus and implementation of Responsible Purchasing Practices, through collaboration with leading industry actors. As part of the recent update to the Higg Index Brand & Retail Module (BRM), released in March 2023, the Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices informed the RPP questions, which were developed in collaboration with Fair Wear and the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI). Today, 43% of questions in the Higg BRM relate to RPP. Martin also detailed how the collaboration between the SAC, Fair Wear, and the International Apparel Federation (IAF) will evolve to establish responsible purchasing practices at the heart of fostering more equitable partnerships between buyers and suppliers, ”This will be supported by generating company and industry insights, informing training, setting roadmaps, exploring root causes and much more. Through the tools we are evolving, and the partnerships we have built, we are demonstrating our commitment to accelerating responsible purchasing practices as a key lever in realizing systemic industry transformation,” Martin said.