Andrew Martin, executive vice president, Cascale participated in the inaugural global apparel factory summit hosted by Avery Dennison, a Cascale member at the forefront of sustainability and innovation.
Avery Dennison is a global materials science and digital identification solutions company that provides a wide range of branding and information solutions that optimize labor and supply chain efficiency, reduce waste, advance sustainability, circularity and transparency, and better connect brands and consumers. The event took place in Singapore in September and attendees included a select group of owners and CEOs of manufacturing facilities in Asia and Europe. Presentations and discussions centered around challenges in the supply chain, from traceability to circularity.
In a fireside chat, Martin began by sharing the main purpose of his attendance: to listen to the concerns and challenges of manufacturers—voices that need greater attention, especially in the context of traceability—and to explore how Cascale, in its role as a convener of the entire value chain, can support them. He examined how the supply chain must work together to unlock transparency and traceability. Both referenced data from Cascale’s Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) tool, which is exclusively available on Worldly. The Higg FEM is a transformative tool used to assess the environmental impact of product manufacturing at facilities, from water use to waste management, to chemical and energy use.
Martin’s presentation was especially relevant to attendees in showcasing how transformative Higg FEM data is for advancing facility improvements while reducing redundancy. He emphasized the value of the Higg Index tools in offering standardized approaches and highlighted Cascale’s crucial role in reducing duplication, increasing harmonization, and ensuring consistency, particularly in the context of data collection for traceability in response to upcoming regulations. Additional speakers included Steve Lamar, president and CEO of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), among others.
Martin also shared learnings from Cascale members, noting that since much of the, legislation, —such as the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting & Due Diligence Directives (CSRD & CSDDD), Eco-Design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), and Digital Product Passport (DPP), and the US’s Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA),—are still pending further clarification, and even aligned implementation, the focus of ESG data collection processes is still being focused just on compliance with specific data points. He emphasized however that the importance of the industry shifting towards traceability, that enables more effective due diligence, risk identification, and opportunities for and verification of ESG progress.
Martin emphasized the importance of making sustainability information transparent at the site level, a core component of traceability, defined as “the process of creating visibility of materials, products, and the information in which they were produced through the supply chain, to ensure the accountability of environmental and social progress.” He characterized the burden that traceability places on manufacturers as “irrational” and called for rapid collaboration on pragmatic interventions to harmonize the ESG data reporting landscape, standardizing supply chain data points, align data collection templates and questionnaires, and harmonizing data requests and verification cycles.
He also mentioned initiatives like Cascale’s decarbonization programs, including the Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP), inviting attendees to consider their involvement.
In a new recurring series “A Manufacturer’s Perspective,” manufacturers share their ideas, visions, and lessons in sustainability. First up, Busana Group’s CEO Sunil Shewakramani.
As the CEO of Busana Group, a family-owned business based in Indonesia, I am proud to reflect on our nearly 50-year journey in the textile manufacturing industry.
Over the years, we’ve grown into a mid-to-large-scale company with a diverse product portfolio, including denim, athleisure, men’s shirts, ladies’ soft dressing, and outerwear. With 24 factories in Indonesia and joint ventures in countries like Jordan, Bangladesh, India, and Ethiopia, we’ve built a solid foundation based on innovation, sustainability, and a people-centric approach. We employ around 34,000 people, of whom 92 percent are women, and we are committed to fostering a stable, skilled workforce.
At Busana Group, sustainability is more than just a buzzword — it’s part of our DNA. Our journey toward environmental, social, and governance (ESG) goals began back in 1982, long before ESG became an industry staple. It started with a focus on social impact—caring for our people and fostering community development. Over time, this expanded into environmental impact, where we prioritized energy efficiency, automation, and sustainable practices. We’ve always believed in doing good simply because it’s the right thing to do.
As a result, our sustainability initiatives have led to tangible improvements in efficiency, employee well-being, and environmental outcomes. One example is our LEED Platinum-certified factory, which set a global benchmark for green manufacturing when it was established in 2017. This factory, the highest-rated globally, reflects our commitment to not only meeting but exceeding industry standards. It’s investments like these that demonstrate our belief in doing well by doing good — combining ethical values with operational excellence.
But sustainability isn’t just about the environment; it’s about people and profits too. At Busana Group, we believe in the intersection of people, planet, and profit, and see this approach as a long-term competitive advantage. The journey hasn’t always been easy, but it’s been rewarding, and it’s shaped who we are as a company today.
A key driver of our sustainability efforts is data. The ability to measure and track environmental and social performance is critical to making informed decisions and driving continuous improvement. This is why tools like the Higg Index, which we’ve been using for several years, are invaluable. The Higg Facility Environmental Module (Higg FEM) provides us with a standardized framework to measure our environmental performance, identify gaps, and drive improvements across our operations. This kind of data-driven approach ensures that we stay on top of our sustainability goals, constantly pushing forward toward higher standards.
We’re also proud to be part of Cascale, the largest coalition in the fashion and consumer goods industry, where collaboration is key. Our membership gives us access to resources like the Higg Index and the broader sustainability network, allowing us to engage with brands, suppliers, and stakeholders on a deeper level. Being part of Cascale aligns with our vision of not just being a participant in the industry, but helping to lead the charge in sustainability through collective action.
As we continue to work with Cascale and leverage tools like the Higg Index, one of the most important aspects we’ve observed is the need for better alignment between brands and manufacturers. As a tier-one supplier, we play a crucial role in providing the data that brands need to meet regulatory requirements, address climate issues, and drive sustainability across the supply chain. But it’s clear that more needs to be done to bring all stakeholders — brands, manufacturers, tier-two and tier-three suppliers — into the same conversation. This is where organizations like Cascale can play a pivotal role by facilitating collaboration and setting joint sustainability goals for the entire supply chain.
The road ahead for the fashion and consumer goods industry is challenging, but the potential for meaningful, long-term impact is immense. Regulations are tightening, customer expectations are shifting, and the demand for transparency and traceability is greater than ever. In this evolving landscape, the role of data and collaboration cannot be overstated. At Busana Group, we are committed to being part of the solution, working hand in hand with our partners and leveraging tools like the Higg Index to drive meaningful change across the industry.
Our work is far from over, but I believe we are on the right path. As we move forward, we will continue to innovate, collaborate, and push the boundaries of what’s possible in sustainable manufacturing. By working together with our peers, brands, and stakeholders, we can create a more sustainable, transparent, and equitable future for the industry—and for the planet.
Sunil Shewakramani is the CEO of Busana Group, an Indonesia-based global apparel manufacturer.
San Francisco, Amsterdam, Hong Kong – January 22, 2024: The Sustainable Apparel Coalition announced a significant milestone today, welcoming its first member in Korea, Hansoll Textile Ltd. New members, like Hansoll, reflect ongoing efforts to elevate APAC manufacturing voices, which are critical to the SAC’s mission of industry transformation.
“We are thrilled to celebrate the milestone of expanding our reach to Korea with new member Hansoll,” said Andrew Martin, executive vice president of the SAC. “As we demonstrate our commitment to engage more manufacturers in the APAC region, we are honored and humbled by new members that demonstrate their leadership by joining us in industry transformation across the consumer goods industry.”
Founded in 1992, Hansoll Textile Ltd. is a leading global textile company, specializing in the manufacturing and export of knit apparel to the United States, Europe, and Japan. Over the past 30 years, they have achieved a remarkable 200-fold increase in revenue and continue improving their marketing and design capability and investing in owned manufacturing and the world’s best smart factory. As a forward-thinking organization, Hansoll Textile actively responds to evolving market demands by spearheading the transformation of the global digital value chain through a digital platform. Committed to sustainability, they practice green management to contribute to a sustainable future and actively embrace ESG-focused work processes to meet corporate social responsibility.
“As one of the biggest manufacturers in the world, Hansoll Textile is committed to active engagement in ESG-focused management. Joining the SAC provides a pivotal opportunity to align with global sustainability standards,” said Diana Oh, Senior Manager, CSR/Sustainability at Hansoll Textile, a new SAC manufacturer member. “Our SAC membership will significantly benefit Hansoll Textile by enhancing our sustainability practices and integrating us more deeply into the global sustainability textile community. Leveraging SAC’s resources, we aspire to enhance our corporate social responsibility initiatives, broaden our expertise, and set new benchmarks in sustainable manufacturing within the global textile industry. Our SAC membership symbolizes our dedication to shaping a more sustainable and responsible future for the textile industry.”
Now reflecting over 300 members around the world, the SAC doubled the number of manufacturing members in 2023, as compared to the previous year. And, in response to calls from members, the organization began expanding its membership to the adjacent product categories of home furnishings, sporting and outdoor goods, and bags and luggage.
— ENDS —
About the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a global, non-profit alliance of over 300 organizations in global apparel and consumer goods. Initially formed to create standardized sustainability metrics, the SAC has sharpened its focus to driving pre-competitive, collective action across three foundational pillars. As an independent entity, the SAC brings together brands, retailers, manufacturers, NGOs, academics, and industry associations to combat climate change, ensure decent work, and contribute to a nature-positive future. Central to the SAC’s mission is the Higg Index, a suite of comprehensive tools that empower members to measure, evaluate, and improve sustainability performance across the supply chain. To support evolving industry needs, the SAC also brings together a focus in policy, transparency, and programs for collective action.
On March 6, 2024 we hosted over 200 attendees at the Manufacturer Forum: Dhaka under the theme “Catalyst for Change.”
Event Gallery
We hosted our Manufacturer Forum: Bangalore in India, on December 4, 2023, under the theme “Catalyst for Change”
Welcome to Cascale’s Manufacturer Forums! Our Manufacturer Forums are designed to empower business leaders like you to become Catalysts for Change. By participating, you’ll strengthen relationships with customers and value chain partners while championing positive change.
Learn More about our Manufacturer Forums
Welcome to Cascale’s Manufacturer Forums! Our Manufacturer Forums are designed to empower business leaders like you to become Catalysts for Change. By participating, you’ll strengthen relationships with customers and value chain partners while championing positive change.
The textile and apparel industry has a unique role to play in empowering women and increasing equity for millions of women garment workers, especially in the Global South, who depend on it for survival. The theme of this year’s International Women’s Day is ‘embrace equity’ – we must make equity central to our collective journey to becoming more responsible and ensuring a just transition to a fairer and greener system for all.
As with many female leaders across the world, striving for greater equity is a personal passion of mine, and something I reflect on and work towards all year round. Empowering women has huge benefits to industries, and the planet, worldwide.
As we collectively accelerate our work on addressing the climate crisis, those who are the most vulnerable within our sector – the millions of women who work in textile and garment production facilities – must be at the heart of our strategies. Sustainability is about addressing environmental and social equity hand in hand.
The apparel industry is one of the few in which women workers predominate with women making up 80% of the world’s garment workers. Our sector consequently has an enormous opportunity when it comes to increasing equity. Already, it offers a foothold for many women out of poverty.
When speaking to our members and the women working in facilities, I have heard inspiring stories of how working in the industry has not only changed lives, but the lives of the next generation. Women have spoken of increasing independence, security and professional growth. Some are the first in their families to send their children to school, which is especially important for girls and it has enabled them to achieve a more prosperous future. The positive impacts are multi-faceted and multi-generational. By taking a lead on this issue, our industry can take a lead on the greater societal change necessary for a prosperous, inclusive and more equitable future for all.
However, women garment and textile workers are also disproportionately affected by exploitation. Some face gender-based violence and even slavery. We need to do more together, to co-create solutions across the entire value chain to address these issues and realize opportunities for all women. We need to see fair pay, decent conditions, job security, and opportunities for development.
One example of this type of collaboration is RISE, formerly known as Empower@Work, a collaborative initiative from BSR’s HERproject, CARE, Better Work, and GAP Inc.’s P.A.C.E program that seeks to deliver a unified approach to women’s empowerment and gender equality in global supply chains. By helping to support, empower and increase equity for women, the entire industry benefits.
No easy answers exist, but our industry is known for its creativity, ingenuity, and our ability to collaborate on shared solutions. We have the talent, imagination, and skills to envision and realize expansive solutions to the complex series of interlinked problems we face. The key is staying focused on putting people first, particularly women, to ensure greater equality, empowerment, and equity across the value chain.
As a women-dominated industry, apparel has a unique opportunity to do something exceptional and lead on issues of gender equity; this needs to happen from the top down. Although Fortune 500 recently recorded its highest number of companies led by women (10%), fashion industry leaders are still male dominated. Approximately 75% of men take up CEO roles, compared to the 80% of garment workers being made up by women. This disparity between the number of men in leadership positions and women making up the majority in the manual labor work force highlights how important it is to “embrace equity” in the apparel industry and ensure women are empowered throughout the whole supply chain right into leadership roles. If we are serious about gender equity in this industry, our organizations need to reflect this commitment at all organizations across the value chain, from the boardroom to the factory floor.
We need to embrace equity and create the best possible version of our industry – one that empowers women at all levels and creates a more equitable future for all.
The purpose of this Technical Paper is for Higg FEM users to start understanding and preparing for the next version of the Higg FEM (“Higg FEM 4.0”), which will officially be released on the Higg platform in November 2023. Facilities will start reporting their 2023 performance using the FEM 4.0 framework.
