Building Balance and Equity at Cascale: A Look Ahead
Cascale’s senior director of communications, Lee Green, unpacks recent changes and updates in store on all things tools, membership, and more!
Cascale’s senior director of communications, Lee Green, reflects on a season of change and progress.
Cascale’s senior director of communications, Lee Green, reflects on a season of change and progress.
As we head into the final weeks of the year, I’ve been reflecting on the role of communications in supporting our commitment to equity and balance across a diverse membership. We’re a multi-stakeholder initiative in every sense of the word, bringing together manufacturers, brands, and experts to tackle some of the most pressing challenges in sustainability. But in doing this, it’s essential that everyone feels their voice is genuinely heard, valued, and acted upon—a goal that can sometimes feel like an ambitious juggling act. And, as any juggler will tell you, sometimes you are going to drop a ball.
That’s why we’re making moves to keep this balance steady and sustainable. Recently, we made two significant updates that I believe bring us closer to achieving this vision. First, the annual update to our Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) aims to simplify and improve sustainability reporting for manufacturing facilities. Alongside this, we’re also making meaningful improvements to Higg FEM governance, ensuring that members have an even clearer and more active role in shaping the future of the tool. By refining the Higg FEM, we’re not only helping members generate more accurate environmental data, but we’re also cutting down on repetitive reporting processes that, frankly, can wear on anyone’s patience. Manufacturers especially have been asking for more efficient, impactful ways to report their data, and these updates are a step in that direction.
The second shift is our new membership engagement model, which has been designed with one purpose in mind: to ensure equitable representation. Our members are the driving force behind every initiative we undertake, and ensuring that their needs and perspectives shape our work is non-negotiable. This model lets us cater to different member types, making sure that no one feels left out or underrepresented in key conversations. As a showcase of this deepening motivation, we are exploring more diverse perspectives across our platforms. This includes the recent, “A Manufacturer’s Perspective: Busana Group’s CEO Sunil Shewakramani,” as part of a new manufacturer-led blog series. As you’ll see, it’s about breaking down barriers and making our processes more inclusive which is a shared passion across our organization. Our executive team exemplifies this passion, with both our CEO and EVP having both spent more than a month in Asia in the second half of the year, meeting with and listening to manufacturers.
Decarbonization is another cornerstone of our approach, and it’s an area where Cascale has committed to bold, industry-wide action. Our Industry Decarbonization Roadmap is guiding our members on a path to measurable, science-based targets that will align with 2025 goals. In fact, next week, our teams will be meeting in Hong Kong to map out this year’s progress and set an ambitious 2025 roadmap.
Looking ahead to our two main events next year in Asia, I’m especially excited about bringing our community together to share insights and discuss these updates in person. Hosting these gatherings in a region so integral to global manufacturing feels right, especially as we refine our tools, governance, and engagement processes. There’s nothing quite like face-to-face conversations to deepen understanding and build trust, and I can’t wait to connect directly with the people who make Cascale’s work possible.
Communications plays a vital role in this journey—not just as a function but as a bridge. By keeping our members informed, inviting their feedback, and, most importantly, listening, we’re creating a foundation for the kind of equitable and balanced collaboration that will carry us into the future. It’s my job to ensure that our stakeholders know exactly where we’re headed and feel confident in the role they play in that journey. Here’s to an exciting year of growth, together.
Andrew Martin, executive vice president, Cascale participated in the inaugural global apparel factory summit hosted by Avery Dennison, a Cascale member at the forefront of sustainability and innovation.
Avery Dennison is a global materials science and digital identification solutions company that provides a wide range of branding and information solutions that optimize labor and supply chain efficiency, reduce waste, advance sustainability, circularity and transparency, and better connect brands and consumers. The event took place in Singapore in September and attendees included a select group of owners and CEOs of manufacturing facilities in Asia and Europe. Presentations and discussions centered around challenges in the supply chain, from traceability to circularity.
In a fireside chat, Martin began by sharing the main purpose of his attendance: to listen to the concerns and challenges of manufacturers—voices that need greater attention, especially in the context of traceability—and to explore how Cascale, in its role as a convener of the entire value chain, can support them. He examined how the supply chain must work together to unlock transparency and traceability. Both referenced data from Cascale’s Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) tool, which is exclusively available on Worldly. The Higg FEM is a transformative tool used to assess the environmental impact of product manufacturing at facilities, from water use to waste management, to chemical and energy use.
Martin’s presentation was especially relevant to attendees in showcasing how transformative Higg FEM data is for advancing facility improvements while reducing redundancy. He emphasized the value of the Higg Index tools in offering standardized approaches and highlighted Cascale’s crucial role in reducing duplication, increasing harmonization, and ensuring consistency, particularly in the context of data collection for traceability in response to upcoming regulations. Additional speakers included Steve Lamar, president and CEO of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), among others.
Martin also shared learnings from Cascale members, noting that since much of the, legislation, —such as the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting & Due Diligence Directives (CSRD & CSDDD), Eco-Design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), and Digital Product Passport (DPP), and the US’s Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA),—are still pending further clarification, and even aligned implementation, the focus of ESG data collection processes is still being focused just on compliance with specific data points. He emphasized however that the importance of the industry shifting towards traceability, that enables more effective due diligence, risk identification, and opportunities for and verification of ESG progress.
Martin emphasized the importance of making sustainability information transparent at the site level, a core component of traceability, defined as “the process of creating visibility of materials, products, and the information in which they were produced through the supply chain, to ensure the accountability of environmental and social progress.” He characterized the burden that traceability places on manufacturers as “irrational” and called for rapid collaboration on pragmatic interventions to harmonize the ESG data reporting landscape, standardizing supply chain data points, align data collection templates and questionnaires, and harmonizing data requests and verification cycles.
He also mentioned initiatives like Cascale’s decarbonization programs, including the Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP), inviting attendees to consider their involvement.
Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, is introducing a new member engagement and governance model to ensure more inclusive decision-making, with a sharper focus on elevating supplier and manufacturer input.
This shift, reflected in the organization’s structure and membership team architecture, addresses the need for more equitable representation across the supply chain and reinforces Cascale’s commitment to transparency and accountability in tool development and industry standards. By better balancing the influence of brands and suppliers, Cascale aims to foster industry-wide collaboration and build stronger, more equitable partnerships across the consumer goods industry.
As a multi-stakeholder initiative (MSI) nonprofit organization, Cascale’s mission serves the entire value chain without bias, ensuring equity and accessibility for all. With this in mind, the organization will continue to strive to balance the needs and voices of a diverse range of stakeholders – from large to small companies, manufacturers, brands, and NGOs – who work together to shape the future of the organization and achieve shared goals for the consumer goods industry.
In response to this feedback and ongoing conversations, Cascale has both restructured its membership team, shifting from a regional focus to one based on member type, and will be implementing new governance processes. These changes are designed to better serve manufacturer and brand/retailer members while affiliate members remain engaged through the stakeholder engagement team. All members can expect more tailored support and opportunities, through new structured processes to enable deeper collaboration as the transition progresses.
“With this new member engagement structure, our goal is to build a more inclusive representative and impactful system, ensuring that all voices, especially manufacturers, are heard and engaged meaningfully in all areas of our work, including the ongoing evolution of the Higg Index, and development of collective action programs,” said Andrew Martin, executive vice president at Cascale. “By focusing on equitable partnerships and streamlining processes, Cascale is strengthening its commitment to transparency, accountability, and industry convergence. These changes will allow us to better serve our members, support regulatory compliance, and drive impactful sustainability outcomes across the entire value chain.”
Cascale’s membership engagement teams, in particular, have been instrumental in advocating for this structural change. They have worked diligently to seek out and elevate feedback from members, especially manufacturers, ensuring that their needs are better reflected in decision-making processes. Their efforts have helped bring forward a more inclusive approach that will improve representation for manufacturers and elevate their role in shaping Cascale’s tools and initiatives.
Reflected in recruitment for membership team members, including the new role of Senior Manager, Membership Governance, Cascale’s evolved structure enables deeper collaboration, addressing feedback from suppliers who have called for more practical support and engagement. It strengthens Cascale’s commitment to collective action and underscores the organization’s ongoing reflection and adaptability. The new structure also aligns with recommendations from researcher Ilishio Lovejoy. Cascale supported Lovejoy’s two-year study on MSIs by granting her access to materials and facilitating interviews with staff and stakeholders. She presented her case study at Cascale’s recent Annual Meeting in Munich; there, she also joined a panel that included board members representative of the organization’s three sectors, to discuss the theory of fair process.
“It was an absolute pleasure to present my research on collective action tensions at Cascale and explore how fair process can be a valuable mechanism to examine and reduce the structural, functional, and emotional tensions within this multi-stakeholder initiative,” Lovejoy stated, after the event. “I’d also like to thank Colin Browne and the Cascale board for inviting me to present and showing openness to have honest and difficult conversations in the pursuit of better collective action.”
Cascale remains committed to supporting the manufacturing sector, which is vital to achieving shared collective action goals. The organization recently announced positive impacts of its Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP), a pivotal initiative that unites manufacturers worldwide to combat climate change and welcomes Cascale members and non-members alike. In September, Cascale also announced a collaboration with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) aimed at promoting environmentally and socially responsible practices within the apparel sector in this critical region.
Supplier input continues to be a priority as Cascale evolves its Higg Index tools—used by 40,000 companies and exclusively available on Worldly. Each year, the tools are updated to respond to the needs and priorities of its members. These updates ensure the tools deliver the most accurate data to help drive sustainable business decisions and further support compliance on current and emerging reporting obligations. In Q4 2024, updates to the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) and Higg Facility Environmental Module (Higg FEM) will incorporate member and stakeholder feedback.
Updated in October, the Higg MSI, a cradle-to-gate environmental assessment tool for materials, reflects three years of industry-wide collaboration on a cotton-specific methodology and model, setting a new standard for consistency and reliability in fiber-specific data. In November, the Higg FEM update will also build on deep collaborative work; in 2023, the last major Higg FEM update incorporated input from over 140 experts, with manufacturers being the largest represented group.
Together, Cascale’s stakeholders are united to accelerate climate action and catalyze impact at scale through a unified approach to sustainability that drives meaningful change.
Cascale, formerly known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, is thrilled to announce the addition of three new members in the second quarter of 2024. Committed to driving collective action towards a more sustainable, equitable, and restorative consumer goods industry, Cascale represents over 300 organizations worldwide. The organization’s membership spans various sectors, including apparel, footwear, textiles, home furnishings, outdoor sporting goods, and bags and luggage.
Please join us in welcoming Cascale’s new members of Q2 2024
Through Cascale membership, organizations across the consumer goods value chain gain access to the Higg Index, impactful collective action programs, member-exclusive training and events, and a thriving network of industry leaders, innovators, and sustainability advocates.
Be part of a global alliance committed to a sustainable future. Together, members can drive impactful change in the consumer goods industry. Click here to explore Cascale membership.
Members of Cascale’s global community gathered for regional events across Southern Europe, DACH (Germany, Austria, and Switzerland), Hong Kong, and Shanghai.
Recently, members of Cascale’s global community gathered for regional events across Southern Europe, DACH (Germany, Austria, and Switzerland), Hong Kong, and Shanghai. These events highlight the power of collaboration and the value of membership in fostering innovation and sustainability in the industry.
Southern Europe Regional Member Event: Barcelona, Spain
May 28, Desigual HQ
The Southern Europe Regional Member Event, held at Desigual HQ in Barcelona, saw the participation of ten Cascale members, including Desigual, Tendam, Mango, Recover, Mayoral, Teddy, Camper, OVS, Benetton, and El Corte Ingles. The event was marked by a warm welcome from Alberto Ojinaga, CEO of Desigual, who emphasized, “The way to compete in the future will be through collaboration.”
Highlights of the event included insightful knowledge sharing and discussion focusing on traceability through Higg FEM insights and harnessing Higg BRM value. Additionally, a comprehensive tool evolution roadmap was co-presented by Worldly and Cascale, detailing the Higg Product Tools roadmap.
DACH Regional Member Event: Munich, Germany
June 6, Gore Fabrics HQ
The DACH Regional Member Event, hosted at Gore Fabrics HQ in Munich, brought together seven members, including Puma, Gore Fabrics, Lenzing, Sympatex, Hugo Boss, Jack Wolfskin, and Marc O’Polo. Achim Loffler, Gore’s strategy and business operations leader, kicked off the event by stressing the importance of integrated sustainability and business strategies.
Members shared valuable insights on using Higg FEM analytics and data for impact and decarbonization. The event also featured an open discussion on the future of regional collaboration, with attendees outlining key topics for future initiatives.
UK Regional Brand Member Event: London, United Kingdom
June 25, Sainsbury’s HQ
The UK Regional Brand Member Event, hosted at Sainsbury’s HQ in London, brought together 13 brands and retailers, including Cascale members Sainsbury’s, ASDA, Avon, Boohoo, Dunelm, Gymshark, John Lewis, M&S, New Look, Next Plc, Rapha, and River Island.
Highlights of the event included valuable insights on navigating legislation and compliance regulations leveraging the Higg Index suite of tools, harnessing the Higg Product Tools, a Higg Index tool roadmap by Cascale and Worldly, and discussions about Tier 2 overlap analyses.
Cascale & Worldly Shanghai Afternoon Social: Shanghai, China
June 27, Li & Fung HQ
The Shanghai Regional Member Event, hosted at the Li & Fung campus in Shanghai, brought together several Li & Fung suppliers and 20 Cascale member representatives. Ed Lam, board executive director of Li & Fung and CEO of LFX, started with a welcome address stating the importance of collaboration between Cascle, Worldly, and LFX.
Attendees had the unique opportunity to meet and connect with Colin Browne, chief executive officer at Cascale, and Scott Raskin, chief executive officer at Worldly. Key topics discussed included alignment of the Higg Index tools with regulations and ESG compliance, performance ratings for sustainable finance, Higg Index verification, and purchasing practices and relationships between brands and manufacturers. View the event photo gallery
Hong Kong Regional Member Event: Hong Kong, China
July 2, Cascale Hong Kong office
Following the Cascale Manufacturer Forum in Shanghai, the Hong Kong Regional Member Event was held for the second year at the regional Cascale office. The event brought together 21 member organizations, including Crystal Group, TAL Apparel, QIMA, ESTS, and GAP Inc.
The event included a fireside chat with Cascale’s new CEO, Colin Browne, and Andrew Martin, executive vice president at Cascale, followed by a Manufacturer Climate Action Program (MCAP) presentation from Joyce Tsoi, senior director of the decarbonization program. Additionally, Crystal Group, a Cascale manufacturer member since 2012, shared their journey with Cascale and the Higg FEM. Discussions focused on driving impact, amplifying manufacturers’ voices, and addressing industry needs such as support for Scope 3 science-based targets and upcoming regulations. The event concluded with an Ask Me Anything session and a networking reception.
These regional events underscore the critical role Cascale plays in convening members to share insights, best practices, and innovative solutions. By bringing diverse voices across the industry together, Cascale fosters a collaborative environment that drives progress towards its shared vision of a global consumer goods industry that gives more than it takes — to the planet and its people. The value of membership lies not only in the access to Cascale’s Higg Index tools and resources but also in the strength of its global community.
Not yet a Cascale member? Click here to learn more about becoming a member.
Andrew Martin, EVP at Cascale, traces his visit to Hong Kong-based manufacturer Epic Group’s CIPL facility in Bangladesh showcasing sustainable innovation and a responsible future ahead.
It’s one thing for a company to talk about their sustainability commitments, and it’s another thing entirely to show them off – and invite someone into their production lines for a closer look.
In Bangladesh earlier this year, I had the privilege of touring Cascale member Epic Group’s CIPL facility. Like Cascale, Hong Kong-based manufacturer Epic Group is committed to improving the way they do things. This commitment, or “Relentless Pursuit of Better” as they’ve called it, equates to a sizable impact across their 200 production lines and 9 facilities (to the tune of 120 million garments per year)! Since 2005, they have continued to push their standards in delivering value-added, world-class manufacturing in apparel that favors quality, value, and sustainable innovation.
What is Epic Group’s innovation exactly? During my tour, I saw how continued investment in new factories and technology pays for itself in the long haul. I witnessed the first-hand investments made in automation, RFID-based production tracking, worker performance systems, and upgraded laundry machines. I also observed their state-of-the-art Effluent Treatment Plant, which meets Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) aspirational discharge standards and reuses 50 percent of treated effluent back into operations. This is essential given the uphill battle of wages, energy, and data costs. More important than ever is standardization, accelerating away from proprietary requests and moving towards convergence.
So what does that mean at an assessment level? I had really great robust conversations with Vidhura Ralapanawe, (Epic Group’s executive vice president, Sustainability & Innovation and Cascale Board Director) and the team, and we all agreed that assessments need to adapt to the times, meaning satisfying standardized industry-wide accepted reporting requirements while adapting to current and upcoming regulations. However, beyond this it was clear that further expectations should be razor focused only on setting up factories for improvements over time, while avoiding the addition of unnecessary burdens sometimes often imposed by individual companies that don’t add value to performance improvement. After all, this is at the very core of Cascale’s origin story.
We had productive discussions on Epic Group’s ongoing sustainability journey and future goals to halve their water and carbon footprints by 2030.
Because let’s not forget – this year is a pivotal year. We can’t tolerate climate commitments falling by the wayside. Scientists warned of surpassing critical limits, and February marked a year-long trend of global temperatures above the 1.5-degrees Celsius according to the European Union’s Copernicus Climate Change Service. It’s why the efforts of global manufacturers like Epic Group matter and must be complemented by collective efforts across people and planet.
Though I’ve seen many factories in my 30-year career in global textile supply chains – from development of Olympic and World Cup-winning performance fabrics to operational improvements in factories – this tour left me with deeper inspiration.
I’m excited about how Cascale and Epic Group can continue to collaborate to raise sustainability standards across the apparel industry through collective action with brands, manufacturers, and other stakeholders – including elected officials. With the European Union’s recent approval of the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CS3D), which is a positive step forward, I am motivated to see how responsibility becomes the norm.
In the first quarter of 2024, Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, proudly welcomed 11 new members to its global membership community. With a mission to catalyze collective action toward an equitable and restorative consumer goods industry, Cascale continues to expand its reach, now comprising over 300 organizations worldwide.
Please join us in recognizing Cascale’s new members of Q1 2024
Cascale stands as a global, non-profit alliance of 300 leading consumer goods brands, retailers, manufacturers, sourcing agents, service providers, trade associations, NGOs, and academic institutions. Representing every link of the global value chain, Cascale members co-create solutions to today’s biggest social and environmental challenges.
Together, Cascale members shape a more equitable and restorative future for the consumer goods industry and the planet. Operating in apparel, footwear, and textiles; home furnishings; sporting and outdoor goods; and bags and luggage, members have access to a global network of industry leaders, innovative tools like the Higg Index, and collaborative opportunities that drive transformative sustainability.
Be part of a global alliance committed to a sustainable future. Together, we can drive impactful change in the consumer goods industry. Click here to learn more about becoming a member.
Discover the possibilities of becoming a member of Cascale, formerly Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), by downloading our membership brochure. Take the first step towards unlocking valuable benefits, industry insights, and a supportive global community.
San Francisco, Amsterdam, Hong Kong – January 22, 2024: The Sustainable Apparel Coalition announced a significant milestone today, welcoming its first member in Korea, Hansoll Textile Ltd. New members, like Hansoll, reflect ongoing efforts to elevate APAC manufacturing voices, which are critical to the SAC’s mission of industry transformation.
“We are thrilled to celebrate the milestone of expanding our reach to Korea with new member Hansoll,” said Andrew Martin, executive vice president of the SAC. “As we demonstrate our commitment to engage more manufacturers in the APAC region, we are honored and humbled by new members that demonstrate their leadership by joining us in industry transformation across the consumer goods industry.”
Founded in 1992, Hansoll Textile Ltd. is a leading global textile company, specializing in the manufacturing and export of knit apparel to the United States, Europe, and Japan. Over the past 30 years, they have achieved a remarkable 200-fold increase in revenue and continue improving their marketing and design capability and investing in owned manufacturing and the world’s best smart factory. As a forward-thinking organization, Hansoll Textile actively responds to evolving market demands by spearheading the transformation of the global digital value chain through a digital platform. Committed to sustainability, they practice green management to contribute to a sustainable future and actively embrace ESG-focused work processes to meet corporate social responsibility.
“As one of the biggest manufacturers in the world, Hansoll Textile is committed to active engagement in ESG-focused management. Joining the SAC provides a pivotal opportunity to align with global sustainability standards,” said Diana Oh, Senior Manager, CSR/Sustainability at Hansoll Textile, a new SAC manufacturer member. “Our SAC membership will significantly benefit Hansoll Textile by enhancing our sustainability practices and integrating us more deeply into the global sustainability textile community. Leveraging SAC’s resources, we aspire to enhance our corporate social responsibility initiatives, broaden our expertise, and set new benchmarks in sustainable manufacturing within the global textile industry. Our SAC membership symbolizes our dedication to shaping a more sustainable and responsible future for the textile industry.”
Now reflecting over 300 members around the world, the SAC doubled the number of manufacturing members in 2023, as compared to the previous year. And, in response to calls from members, the organization began expanding its membership to the adjacent product categories of home furnishings, sporting and outdoor goods, and bags and luggage.
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About the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) is a global, non-profit alliance of over 300 organizations in global apparel and consumer goods. Initially formed to create standardized sustainability metrics, the SAC has sharpened its focus to driving pre-competitive, collective action across three foundational pillars. As an independent entity, the SAC brings together brands, retailers, manufacturers, NGOs, academics, and industry associations to combat climate change, ensure decent work, and contribute to a nature-positive future. Central to the SAC’s mission is the Higg Index, a suite of comprehensive tools that empower members to measure, evaluate, and improve sustainability performance across the supply chain. To support evolving industry needs, the SAC also brings together a focus in policy, transparency, and programs for collective action.